Varanasi: There is no place like it in the world!
We were finally headed to Varanasi. This is one of those places that is mystified me since I learned anything about India. I’d read so much about it and seeing pictures but I don’t think any of these could possibly prepare me for the experience of actually being there.
In the afternoon we arrive by plane. We were driven directly to our hotel and given an opportunity freshen up before dinner. Driving through the streets was the first time I can honestly say that I saw poverty that really astonished me. People were laying in the streets with no apparent home. The guide said they were really not homeless but we’re actually pilgrims I would come here to be in the Ganges River. It was still fascinating to see. There was also a military facility nearby where young men could volunteer for the army and hundreds of young men lined the streets waiting to be interviewed by the military personnel. Everything was just crowded like I had not seen before.
After dinner we boarded a bus to head to the banks of the Ganges. None of us could possibly be aware of what we are about to see. The street was full of people and it was difficult for the bus to get by. Finally, the bus stopped and let us out and we we weaved our way through the crowds heading to the banks of the river. OMG!
People were everywhere. There was steps going down to the banks of the river and they were completely filled with pilgrims. There were hundreds of boats in the river and all of them were crowded around this one particular bank. There was a ceremony of Thanksgiving going on. Music was blaring to the point that was hurting our ears. There were five ceremonial dancers dancing on platforms. They were dancing as if they were in a frenzy. They were waving fire around in different vessels. When we went to move around to the front to see them people were quite angered that we were in their line of sight. Finally we had the opportunity to sit down on the steps and watch this ceremony go on. I’ve never seen anything quite like it in my life. It was like something out of the 10 Commandments.
There were children all dressed up begging for money. There were people selling all kinds of religious articles and then there were just people walking around and taking in the sights. Our guide had us move along and we were able to walk down a little further on the banks of the river and get into a boat that was going to take us out into the Ganges. Would you believe that this is where our real adventure was to begin. We all climbed into the boat and they were too young men who were going to navigate our trip on the river. Although the banks of the river were lit up it was dark out on the river. The boat was barely seaworthy and I hope that they pay these to enough to get the motor tuned up but certainly needed it.
As the festive it is on the steps drifted away, we started to come upon small groups of people on the banks of the river and many boats milling around. We kept heading north to look at the different sections of the river bank which they called gat
As the festivities on the steps drifted away, we started to come upon small groups of people on the banks of the river and many boats milling around. We kept heading north to look at the different sections of the river bank which they called Ghats. Different ghats were used for different things. The most important ones were the ones that were used for cremation. They told us that cremations we’re done along the Ganges 24 hours a day. Several cremations could be going on all at one time in the same area. To begin each cremation the body would be brought to the river with the golden cover and dipped into the river to be blessed. Then it would be taken out and left to dry for a period of time. Then it would be put on a pile of sandalwood and sandalwood has a distinctive smell and it hides the smell of the burning body. They then light the fire and keep it burning using clarified butter. Standing by the body would be the chief mourner, that would be a wife or a son. That person would’ve had the head shaved and would be dressed in white. They would stay there for the beginning of the burning and then they would leave and come back later. The undertaker who is generally someone of a very lower social rank would be there to see that the fire continue to burn and that the entire body was burnt. At the end of burning, if there were any bones left the undertaker would give them to the mourner who would then throw them in the Ganges.
In the boat , We were able to get close to see the cremations and we were allowed to take pictures. They were at least six or seven cremation is going on all at once. There were lots of people standing around watching from up above and in boats on the river. Once they produce in very close we were told not to take any pictures at that point. Often times families of the person being cremated where in the boats and you did not want to offend them. We watch this for a while and then we head to the boat back to where the crowd in the live music we’re in full force.
I can’t even begin to tell you what went through my mind at this cremations. I’ve never seen anything quite like it. It was explained to us that only the wealthy are able to have this type of a cremation and to have it at the Ganges. Often times people are cremated elsewhere and their ashes are brought to the Ganges and are spread along the river.
In the afternoon we arrive by plane. We were driven directly to our hotel and given an opportunity freshen up before dinner. Driving through the streets was the first time I can honestly say that I saw poverty that really astonished me. People were laying in the streets with no apparent home. The guide said they were really not homeless but we’re actually pilgrims I would come here to be in the Ganges River. It was still fascinating to see. There was also a military facility nearby where young men could volunteer for the army and hundreds of young men lined the streets waiting to be interviewed by the military personnel. Everything was just crowded like I had not seen before.
After dinner we boarded a bus to head to the banks of the Ganges. None of us could possibly be aware of what we are about to see. The street was full of people and it was difficult for the bus to get by. Finally, the bus stopped and let us out and we we weaved our way through the crowds heading to the banks of the river. OMG!
People were everywhere. There was steps going down to the banks of the river and they were completely filled with pilgrims. There were hundreds of boats in the river and all of them were crowded around this one particular bank. There was a ceremony of Thanksgiving going on. Music was blaring to the point that was hurting our ears. There were five ceremonial dancers dancing on platforms. They were dancing as if they were in a frenzy. They were waving fire around in different vessels. When we went to move around to the front to see them people were quite angered that we were in their line of sight. Finally we had the opportunity to sit down on the steps and watch this ceremony go on. I’ve never seen anything quite like it in my life. It was like something out of the 10 Commandments.
There were children all dressed up begging for money. There were people selling all kinds of religious articles and then there were just people walking around and taking in the sights. Our guide had us move along and we were able to walk down a little further on the banks of the river and get into a boat that was going to take us out into the Ganges. Would you believe that this is where our real adventure was to begin. We all climbed into the boat and they were too young men who were going to navigate our trip on the river. Although the banks of the river were lit up it was dark out on the river. The boat was barely seaworthy and I hope that they pay these to enough to get the motor tuned up but certainly needed it.
As the festive it is on the steps drifted away, we started to come upon small groups of people on the banks of the river and many boats milling around. We kept heading north to look at the different sections of the river bank which they called gat
As the festivities on the steps drifted away, we started to come upon small groups of people on the banks of the river and many boats milling around. We kept heading north to look at the different sections of the river bank which they called Ghats. Different ghats were used for different things. The most important ones were the ones that were used for cremation. They told us that cremations we’re done along the Ganges 24 hours a day. Several cremations could be going on all at one time in the same area. To begin each cremation the body would be brought to the river with the golden cover and dipped into the river to be blessed. Then it would be taken out and left to dry for a period of time. Then it would be put on a pile of sandalwood and sandalwood has a distinctive smell and it hides the smell of the burning body. They then light the fire and keep it burning using clarified butter. Standing by the body would be the chief mourner, that would be a wife or a son. That person would’ve had the head shaved and would be dressed in white. They would stay there for the beginning of the burning and then they would leave and come back later. The undertaker who is generally someone of a very lower social rank would be there to see that the fire continue to burn and that the entire body was burnt. At the end of burning, if there were any bones left the undertaker would give them to the mourner who would then throw them in the Ganges.
In the boat , We were able to get close to see the cremations and we were allowed to take pictures. They were at least six or seven cremation is going on all at once. There were lots of people standing around watching from up above and in boats on the river. Once they produce in very close we were told not to take any pictures at that point. Often times families of the person being cremated where in the boats and you did not want to offend them. We watch this for a while and then we head to the boat back to where the crowd in the live music we’re in full force.
I can’t even begin to tell you what went through my mind at this cremations. I’ve never seen anything quite like it. It was explained to us that only the wealthy are able to have this type of a cremation and to have it at the Ganges. Often times people are cremated elsewhere and their ashes are brought to the Ganges and are spread along the river.
Upon returning to the banks of the river from the boat, our guide brought us through the crowd and loaded us back on the bus. Here we were swamped by beggars and vendors. We were rightly discouraged from giving to beggars as once you give to one, the word will get out.
Tomorrow morning, back to the Ganges!
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